Greg Mullins 2

This article is from the December 17 issue of The Sydney Morning Herald Digital Edition. To subscribe, visit http://smh.com.au/digitaledition.

Greg Mullins

On Sunday, volunteers from my own Rural Fire Service brigade faced off against 70 metre flames in the Blue Mountains. Properties were consumed by the fire but thankfully no life was lost. This mega-blaze at Gospers Mountain, where I have spent several 16-hour shifts, has been raging for weeks and burned more than 380,000 hectares. There are 117 bushfires blazing in NSW alone and we face extreme heat later this week.

The Prime Minister has urged everyone to calm down about bushfires raging through NSW, Queensland, and now Western Australia. He has said that he can recall as a boy seeing Sydney surrounded by bushfire smoke haze and that for children, or anyone who hadn’t experienced it before, it was ‘‘ deeply troubling’’ .

But the experiences I describe here are nothing like the Prime Minister’s recollections of yesteryear. The fires we are battling today started earlier, burn more intensely, have destroyed more homes and covered more ground than anything we’ve seen before in NSW. Fact, not opinion. Seasoned firefighters have felt overwhelmed and exhaustion has become a way of life. Fear and anxiety among the population grows daily as fires advance.

The Prime Minister has said he takes advice from fire chiefs and will provide any assistance that is requested. However, his government continues to sit on a business case, more than 12 months old, pleading for more money to lease large, firefighting aircraft. Last week’s funding announcement has been confirmed as simply a oneoff . On Sunday, just before fire escalated in the Blue Mountains, the large 737 air tanker headed over to Perth. An example of something my retired fire chief colleagues and I warned about – not enough aircraft to cover simultaneous, longer fire seasons.

I’m glad the Prime Minister values the work of the brave men and women around the country, paid and volunteer, who face the flames . But firefighters and many others who work on the frontline have been warning that climate change is having a devastating impact. Prolonged drought, tinder-dry bush and extreme heat coupled with longer, overlapping fire seasons has made Australia an even more dangerous place.

In the face of this, the leadership vacuum and misinformation has been astounding.

Outside of Australia, we have become an international pariah. In Madrid, the world heard with disbelief our government’s refusal to address the causes of climate change, while watching our bushfire catastrophe unfold. They saw images on their screens of our country burning, of parched land, dried waterways, burnt wildlife and frightened citizens. They must be asking themselves – as I do – what will it take to get our government to wake up to the climate emergency?

If I could, I would gladly take Mr Morrison and his cabinet to the frontline of one of these bushfires to experience for themselves what we are going through. Would that move him? Would he begin to understand the enormity of what this country is now facing due to years of failure to address the causes of climate change?

The Prime Minister has repeatedly declined to meet representatives of Emergency Leaders for Climate Action, but instead referred former fire chiefs to ministers Littleproud and Taylor.

If he really wants to restore calm he needs to step up. A national, coordinated response to more intense and frequent extreme weather events, and a policy framework that will drastically reduce greenhouse emissions, is now imperative. We owe it to future generations, and to those who are suffering loss right now.

Greg Mullins is a former NSW Fire and Rescue commissioner and founder of Emergency Leaders for Climate Action.

Copyright © 2019 The Sydney Morning Herald

Montenegro

Budva in the coast of Montenegro.

Montenegro, meaning Black Mountain, is one of the Balkan countries bordering Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia and Albania and was part of Yugoslavia until it gained independence in 2006. It has an area of only 14,000 sq km and population of less than 700,000. Montenegro has applied to join the European Union, but like many of the smaller members it doesn’t have a lot offer, apart from tourism. The larger and wealthier countries in Europe such as Germany and France are already supporting countries like Italy, Spain and Greece and only time will tell if the EU can continue in its current format. We took a tour to the city of Budva with its Old Town inside walls dating from the 15th century, then driving back along the coast to the port town of Kotor to take a walking tour through the old Medieval section visiting the 12th century Cathedral of St Tryphon and the Orthodox Church of St Luka. Budva is the most visited destination in Montenegro attracting visitors from Eastern Europe drawn to its old town, night clubs and rocky beaches. The Old Town is situated on a rocky peninsula and dates from pre-Greek colonisation but most of the existing walls and buildings were erected during the Venetian rule. Kotor is also surrounded by fortifications built during the Venetian period and has one of the best preserved medieval old towns in the Adriatic. It is home to many old buildings including St Tryphon Cathedral built in 1166 and the ancient walls that stretch for 4.5km directly above the town. We left Kotor aboard the Oosterdam in the afternoon so the passengers could enjoy the outward trip through the Bay of Kotor, which is often called Europe’s southern-most fjord, but is actually a ria, a submerged river valley, with small towns and villages dotted along either side of the 28km length. This was the final port of call on our 24 day Mediterranean cruise before disembarking in Venice. A very enjoyable experience with great company in Jim and Cory from Chicago … thank you both.

Budva is a well preserved Medieval wild city.

The narrow streets are restricted to pedestrians, bicycles and scooters.

The locals build around ruins from the past.

Looking along the coast from the walled town.

Continuing our walk around the town.

One for grandson Lockie … pirates and lollies!

One of the entrances to Budva.

The Sea Gate entrance to Kotor.

The Clock Tower was created in 1602 but was badly distorted in the earthquake of 1979.

The Arms Square in Kotor where weapons from the Venetian period were stored.

The 12th century Cathedral of St Tryphon.

The Cathedral was built in 1166.

The Church of St Luka was built in 1195.

The Church of St Nikola was rebuilt recently.

The ancient walls extend for 4.5km above the town.

The narrow alleyways of Kotor.

How to get attention.

Building in a narrow space.

Following another cruise ship out of the Bay of Kotor.

Passing one of the small villages lining the bay.

Another town in the Bay of Kotor.

A small island houses the St George Benedictine Monastery which has been around since the 12th century.

Corfu (Greece)

The Old Fortress at the entrance to Corfu.

Corfu is another island in the Ionian Sea renowned for its rugged mountains and resort studded coastline. Its culture reflects the many years spent under Venetian, French and British rule before it became part of Greece in 1864. The town of Corfu, flanked by two imposing Venetian fortresses, features winding Medieval lanes, a French-style arcade and the grand Palace of St Michael and St George. Our tour began with a visit to the beautiful coastline at Palaiokastritsa, a village in north-western Corfu followed by a visit to Achilleion Palace, a neo-Classical summer palace designed and built by Empress Elizabeth of Austria, also known as Sissi. The architectural style was intended to represent an ancient palace of mythical Phaeacia. It was designed with the hero Achilles of Greek mythology as its central theme and from which the name is derived. We walked through the palace and the formal Italian garden with its statues. We concluded our tour with a guided walking tour of Corfu’s Old Town.

Palaiokastritsa in Corfu.

Palaiokastritsa.

Looking down towards Palaiokastritsa bay.

The bell tower of Agiou Spiridonos, a church near the beach at Palaiokastrites.

Outside the Church.

And inside the church.

Achilleion Palace.

A photo of Empress Elizabeth of Austria.

The Triumph of Achilles, a panoramic fresco in the palace.

Achilles the guardian of the palace in the gardens.

Steps leading to a side entrance to the palace.

The side entrance.

A view over the city from the palace.

Another view over Corfu bay.

The entrance of the Old Town of Corfu.

Walking around the Old Town.

The Museum of Asian Art in Corfu.

Continuing our walk around the Old Town o Corfu.

Argostoli (Greece)

Argostoli is one of the busiest ports in Greece.

Argostoli is a town of the Greek island of Kefalonia (Cephalonia), one of the Ionian islands, and is one of the busiest ports in Greece. Our tour of the island began at Melissani Lake, an underground lake fed by subterranean channels which suck sea water from one side of the island and seven days later expel that water into the bay of Sami. We descended down stairs into the cave to take a boat around the lake from the uncovered part of the cave where light falls on the water creating beautiful turquoise shades and continues into the part of the cave that is covered. The boatman serenaded us as he rowed around the cathedral-like cave with stalactites hanging from the ceiling. We then continued our tour of the island stopping at Fiskardo, a picturesque village, for lunch. This was the only village or town on the island that wasn’t devastated by the 1953 earthquake. We returned to Argostoli in the afternoon along the rugged coastline with a couple of stops for photo opportunities at Sami and Pylaros overlooking the spectacular Myrtros Beach.

Entering the port city of Argostoli.

Travelling through the Kefalonian countryside.

Entering Melissani Lake.

Beginning our tour of the lake aboard a row boat.

Enjoying the boat trip.

The turquoise coloured water inside the cave.

The turquoise waters of the lake.

Stalactites hanging from the roof of the cave.

An interesting view of the roof of the cave.

Our oarsman serenading the boat.

Another view inside the cave.

The coastline at Sami.

The fishing village of Fiskardo.

Fiskardo.

The coastline at Pylaros.

Myrtos Beach at Pylaros.

Myrtos Beach.

The rugged coastline at Pylaros.

Nafplio (Greece) 2

The sun rises over Bourtzi castle in the middle of Nafplio harbour.

Nafplio, or Nafplion, is part of Greece, situated in the northeast Peloponnese has been occupied since ancient times, but little remains apart from the walls of Acronauplia. The fortifications were added to by the Byzantines, Franks, Venetians and Turks. From the port city, we took an organised tour to Epidaurus and Mycenae. Epidaurus is a small city dedicated to the god of healing, Aesclepius. Our first stop was the Archaeological Museum noted for its reconstruction of temples, columns and inscriptions. It opened in 1909 to display artefacts uncovered in the ancient site of Epidaurus. Adjacent to the Museum is the ancient theatre of Epidaurus built in the 4th century BC. The original 34 rows built by the Greeks were extended by another 21 rows by the Romans. It seats up to 14,000 people and is renowned for it exceptional acoustics. Mycenae is archaeological site further along the Peloponnese built on a hill rising 300m above sea level. It was a major military stronghold dominating much of southern Greece, Crete and the Cyclades. The period of Greek history from 1600BC to 1100BC is called Mycenaean. Apart from it strong defensive and strategic position, Mycenae had good corn growing land and an adequate water supply. At it peak, the city supported a population of 30,000. Nearby is the impressive Tomb of Clytemnestra, a Mycenaean tholos (bee-hive like) tomb built around 1250BC. This type of burial structure is characterised by its false dome created by the superposition of successive smaller rings of stones or mud bricks. The resulting structure resembles a bee hive. The tomb is named after Clytemnestra, the wife of King Agamemnon, the mythical ruler of Mycenae and leader of the Greeks in the Trojan wars.

Entering Nafplio harbour.

Part of the exhibits in the Archaeological Museum of Epidaurus.

The Museum is famous for it reconstruction of temples and their columns etc.

Statue of Asklepios.

The Romans cut the heads off Greek statues.

The theatre of Epidaurus was built in the 4th century BC.

The Romans added 21 rows to the theatre.

The theatre is renowned for its excellent acoustics.

Mycenae was a military stronghold dominating the landscape.

Entering Mycenae through the Lions Gate.

Two lions flank the central column.

Overlooking the burial grounds of Mycenae.

Another view over the ancient city of Mycenae.

The fertile valley below Mycenae.

The houses of the wealthy were at the top of the hill.

Leaving through the Lions Gate.

The tomb of Clytemnestra.

The entrance to the Tomb of Clytemnestra.

Inside the tomb.

The bee hive like roof of the tomb.

Another view of the bee hive roof.

Leaving the Tomb of Clytemnestra.

Athens

One of the most famous archaeological buildings in the world, the Parthenon in Athens has been rewound in history to give a glimpse of the glorious structures created by ancient civilisations. Expedia restored missing pieces of the building, restored facades and marble, erasing hundreds of years of decay.

Athens is one of the oldest cities in the world, with evidence of human presence starting somewhere between the 11th and 7th centuries BC. Like Rome, Athens is not on the coast, requiring a coach trip from the port city of Pireas, although in this case it was only about 15 minutes. The city is dominated by its 5th century BC landmark, the Acropolis, the hilltop citadel topped with ancient buildings including the colonnaded Parthenon Temple. Other buildings on the rocky outcrop that were built during the Golden Age of Athens (460-430BC) by Pericles include the Propylaia, the Erechtheion and the Temple of Athena. The buildings suffered major damage in the 1687 siege by the Venetians when gunpowder being stored in the Parthenon was hit by a cannonball and exploded. The Parthenon, dedicated to the goddess Athena, who the people of Athens considered their patron, is the most important building of Classical Greece. It is 70m long, 30m wide and 14m high. The city is full of historic buildings and we decided the best way to see them was on foot. After leaving the Acropolis, our next stop was the Roman Agora, a series of buildings built during the Roman occupation that includes the Odeon of Agrippa, a large concert hall constructed around 15BC. Next it was Hadrian’s Library, built by Emperor Hadrian in 132AD to house papyrus ‘books’. Nearby the Church of The Holy Apostles dates from around the late 10th century, which has survived intact since its foundation. The Temple of Hephaestus, visible from the Acropolis, is a well preserved Greek Doric Temple completed in 415BC. It was a very enjoyable walk through history.

The Acropolis dominates the Athens skyline.

On the south-eastern slope on the Acropolis is the Herodotus Theatre, an open-air theatre built by the Romans in the first century AD.

Looking from the Herodotus Theatre across Athens.

The Parthenon dominates the hill top Acropolis.

The columns of the Parthenon.

The view from the Parthenon across Athens.

Erechtheion, also known as the Temple of Athena, is on the north side of the Acropolis.

The real stars of the Erechtheion are the Caryatids, sculptured female figures taking the place of columns or pillars.

A view of Athens from The Acropolis.

Walking the streets of Athens.

The Roman Agora.

Still in the Roman Agora.

The Roman Agora dates from around 15BC.

Hadrian’s Library.

Hadrian’s Library.

The Church of the Holy Apostles.

Inside the Church of the Holy Apostles.

The Temple of Hephaestus viewed from the Acropolis.

Another view of the Temple though the gardens.

The Doric Temple of Hephaestus remains standing largely as built in 415BC.

Another building we came across on our walk through Athens.

Heraklion (Crete)

The Venetian fortress of Castello a Mare (1523) guards the inner harbour of Heraklion.

Our next stopover was Heraklion, the administrative capital of Crete and fourth largest city in Greece (population 140,000). The Bronze Age palace of Knossos is nearby and is also called,the oldest city in Europe. In the first palace period around 2000BC, the urban area was home to around 18,000 people. But Knossos dates back even further into the Neolithic Period, around 7000BC. The early palaces were destroyed, probably by earthquake, around 1700BC, but by 1650BC they had been rebuilt on a far grander scale. They had large central courtyards that were used for public ceremonies. Living quarters, storage rooms and administrative centres were built around the courtyards. The palace had bathrooms, toilets and a drainage system. Another piece of history.

The Venetians built enormous fortifications around the city, including a giant wall, which are still in place today.

Part of the Venetian fortifications.

A couple of small Greek churches.

Ruins of the Palace of Knossos.

The multi-storey Palace of Knossos.

The palace of King Minos.

Prince of lilies, or ‘Priest-king Relief’ plaster relief at the end of the Corridor of Processions.

Restored north entrance to Knossos.

Steps leading to another level in the Palace of Knossos.

Rhodes (Greece)

The village of Lindos with the acropolis above.

We started our tour to the Greek island of Rhodes at the fishing village of Lindos, climbing 120m to the Acropolis, a natural citadel that was fortified by the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Knights of the Southern Cross and Ottomans. It has magnificent views of the coastline and surrounding harbours. The remains of several buildings can still be seen today, including the Doric Temple of Athena Lindia dating from about 300BC; columns of the Hellenistic stoa dating from about 200BC; Staircase of the Propylaea dating from about 300BC; a Roman temple from about 300AD; castle of the Knights of St John built about 1300AD and a carving of trireme, a type of galley used by the Greeks and Romans. The Colossus of Rhodes, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, stood at the entrance to Rhodes harbour until it was destroyed by an earthquake in 226BC. The city of Rhodes, built around 400BC, was soon to become one of the most important seafaring and trading centres in the eastern Mediterranean. The Knights of St John conquered Rhodes in 1309 and built strong defence fortifications. They ruled the city until forced the leave by the Ottoman, moving to Malta (see earlier post). The Turks built mosques and baths. In 1912, the Italians seized control constructing new buildings, roads and squares as well as rebuilding the Palace of the Grand Master and the Street of Knights back to their Medieval purity. Today, the Old Town of Rhodes is a mix of different cultures and civilisations. Another enjoyable stay on our tour of the Mediterranean.

Great views from the acropolis.

Carved into the rock is sculpture of a trireme, a type of galley used in the Mediterranean.

Staircase of Propylaea.

The Doric Temple of Athena Lindia.

At the top of the acropolis hill.

Admiring the views.

Spectacular views from the acropolis.

Time for a coffee with Cory and Jim.

In the port of Rhodes.

Entering the medieval city via the Gate d’Amboise.

View of what used to be a moat. Note the cannon balls.

The walled city.

Walking the streets of Rhodes.

A couple of gypsy buskers.

Entering the Palace of Grand Master.

Inside the courtyard of the Palace of the Grand Master.

Walking around the Palace.

The Streets of Knights.

The Colossus of Rhodes was destroyed by an earthquake in 226BC.

Santorini (Greece)

Sailing towards the ‘snow-capped’ Greek island of Santorini.

Santorini is one of the Greek islands in the Aegean Sea. Sailing towards the island, the town’s and villages clinging to the top of the cliffs appear like snow capped mountains. Together with Jim and Cory, we went ashore on a tender as part of one of the formal tours, ‘Discover Ancient Akrotiri’. This is a Minoan Bronze Age settlement dating back to around 1600BC when a massive volcanic eruption buried the city in ash, preserving many multi-storey buildings with elaborate plumbing systems, pottery objects and artworks. Extensive excavation began in 1967. A roof was erected over the site, but collapsed in 2005, closing it until 2012. It has reopened and excavation continues with a small shrine and a marble figurine of woman being discovered around the time we were there in October. Pigments used by the artists at Akrotiri for painting the frescos appear to be mineral based, helping to preserve the works. The material used in the pottery objects was mostly terracotta, although there is some stoneware. The site is so well preserved that it is sometimes referred to as the ‘Pompeii of the Aegean’. It is amazing to think that this town dates back to around 4500BC!! Santorini is the remnant of the volcanic crater, has an area of 73sq km and a population of 15,000. After our tour, we were dropped off in Fira for lunch and some spectacular views over the town and the 400m deep caldera (crater). The whitewashed cubed houses appear to cling to the cliffs above that underwater caldera. After wandering around the town, we descended by cable car to the port below for the trip back by tender to the Oosterdam.

Coming ashore by tender.

A roof covers the ancient town of Akrotiri.

Walking around ancient settlement.

Work continues today on excavating some of the many pottery objects.

The pottery is mostly terracotta with some stoneware.

The frescos are well preserved considering some date back to the 3rd & 4th centuries BC.

Fresco of a boy fishing.

The buildings are predominately white with some blue roofs.

On the way to Fira we passed an art studio, thankfully the bus didn’t stop!

Views from the cafe where we stopped for lunch.

Another view from the cafe.

And another view.

Lunch with Cory and Jim.

Taking the cable car back to the base of the island.

The view from the cable car.

Leaving the island of Santorini.

Rome

Carol and Greg at the Colosseum.

We had to take a tour if we wanted to visit the ancient inland city of Rome as the ship docks at the port of Civitavecchia, 90 minutes from Rome by coach. It was an early start for the 11 hour tour ‘Best of Rome’ which included time at the Colosseum and the Vatican. On the way to the Colosseum we passed by several other ancient Roman buildings including the Mausoleum of Hadrian, Circus Maximus and the Roman Forum. Close to the Colosseum is the Arch of Constantine, the triumphal arch built in 315 to commemorate Constantine’s victory over Maxentius. The Colosseum is the largest amphitheatre ever built. Taking eight years to construct, it was completed in 80AD. The Colosseum could hold up to 80,000 spectators who came to watch gladiators fight each other or exotic animals, including lions, tigers, elephants and even crocodiles. It measures 190m x160m and it’s estimated 100,000 cubic metres of stone set without mortar were used to construct the outer wall. Leaving the Colosseum, we travelled into the city to view two of the most famous fountains in the world, the Trevi Fountain (26m x 49m) and the Fountain of the Four Rivers in the Piazza Navona. After lunch, we were off to the Vatican City and St Peter’s Square, along with a few thousand other tourists. The line to get into St Peter’s Basilica wasn’t too long when we arrived, but half an hour later, it had snaked it’s way almost around the square. In the centre of the square is an ancient Egyptian obelisk of red granite erected in 1586 and standing 26m in height. St Peter’s Basilica is the largest church in the world. Construction of the present Basilica commenced in 1506 and was completed in 1626 and it covers an area of 2.3ha. The huge cost and sheer opulence of constructing the building led to the birth of Protestantism with a German priest, Martin Luther arguing against the ‘selling of indulgences’, alms for a pardon to go towards the cost of building the church. After leaving this gross opulence behind, we headed back to Civitavecchia, where the Oosterdam was docked.

Sant Angelo in Rome, also known as the Mausoleum of Hadrian.

The Ripa area of Rome contains the ruins of Circus Maximus, a mass entertainment area.

Campitelli – home of the Roman Forum, a vast field of ancient temples and civic buildings.

The Arch of Constantine.

Our first view of the Colosseum.

Inside the Colosseum.

Another view of the inside.

One of the broken columns from the Colosseum.

Trevi Fountain.

Trevi Fountain.

Tourists throw thousands of Euros into the fountain everyday. if you throw a coin in, you will return, so the saying goes.

An unusual busker in Rome.

The Fountain of Four Rivers.

The Pathethon.

Inside the Church of St Eustace.

Another view inside the Church of St Eustace.

The Roman Senate.

St Peter’s Square.

St Peter’s Basilica is the biggest and most extravagant churches in the world.

Another view of St Peter’s Square.

Inside St Peter’s Basilica.

More pics inside St Peters.

The Swiss Guards are responsible for the safety of the Pope.

The Swiss Guards are often called ‘the world’s smallest army’.

The river Tiber flows through Rome.

The Colosseum at dusk.